An American Love Letter to Edinburgh – Scottish Storytelling Centre

This is a delightful, often hilarious, show beautifully performed by Rick Conte. It will appeal not just to lovers of Edinburgh and history buffs but to anyone who loves a good yarn.

Written by Conte and Matt Rudkin, and directed by Andy Cannon, this is the fascinating story of two visits made to Edinburgh in 1759 and 1771 by Benjamin Franklin. ‘Renaissance Man’ Franklin wrote a book on electricity, but is of course most famous as one of the Founding Fathers of the USA. He edited and was one of the signatories of the American Declaration of Independence in 1776.

Franklin had initially been sent over from Philadelphia to London to try to persuade the sons of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, to pay tax. While in London he met several fellow intellectuals including Sir John Pringle, a famous physician, and other Scots who urged him to visit Edinburgh. They told him to go to Calton Hill where he would see the Port of Leith, the Firth of Forth and the North Sea beyond – “the best view in the world”.

Edinburgh also had the world’s best University, and it was said that “you could stand at the Mercat Cross and, in half an hour, shake fifty men of genius by the hand”.

Franklin duly visited Edinburgh, and met the leading figures of the Scottish Enlightenment including David Hume, the philosopher; James Hutton, the father of geology; Joseph Black, the chemist who discovered carbon dioxide; and Adam Smith, the economist who wrote ‘The Wealth of Nations’.  There were drinking sessions and intellectual discussions in the famous Oyster Club until late into the night. Conte has the audience roaring with laughter as he imaginatively plays the often inebriated intellectuals.

At that time it was said of Edinburgh, nicknamed ‘Auld Reekie’, that it was the most beautiful city from a distance but the nastiest close up. Where Princes Street Gardens is now, there was a filthy swamp called the Nor’ Loch. Rick Conte regales us with tales of the dangers of being drenched in human excrement at 10pm every night in Edinburgh. That is when citizens threw the contents of their chamber pots out of their windows onto the streets below. They did shout ‘gardyloo’ first, but Conte amusingly acts out the predicament of a man suffering an unwanted shower from a pot.

Franklin loved his time in Edinburgh and also visited other parts of Scotland including the Borders where he stayed with Lord Kames, the writer, philosopher and judge. Later Franklin wrote to Kames, expressing thanks for

“six weeks of the densest happiness I have met with in any part of my life did not strong connections draw me elsewhere, I believe Scotland would be the country I should choose to spend the remainder of my days in”.

Juxtaposed with his account of Franklin’s visits to Edinburgh, Conte also tells us about his own background and association with Edinburgh. He was born and raised in Atlanta in Georgia, one of the original 13 states. Conte liked British music, and discovered the Scottish duo, the Proclaimers. Listening to ‘Sunshine on Leith’, he wondered what a leith was.

After graduating  from Atlanta University, Conte decided to go to England. He thought it would be a centre of culture and maybe he could get a job there. While in London, someone suggested he should visit Edinburgh. Not having been overly impressed with the artistic scene in London, he arrived in Edinburgh to find plays, comedy and music being performed in almost every cafe, restaurant and and pub. “This is that European culture I’d been looking for”, said Conte. Yes, he’d arrived during the Edinburgh Festival!

Later Conte became a drummer in an indie band which consisted of a Scotsman, an Englishman, an Irishman and an American. And they often went into a bar! When he auditioned they said his drumming was brilliant which Conte felt was over the top. Then he found out they called everything brilliant. (‘Can you meet later for a drink?’ ‘Yes’. ‘Brilliant!’)

Edinburgh “took him in 35 years ago and has yet to spit him out”.

Echoing Franklin, Conte ends by saying he’s had his ‘densest happiness’ here. Conte may have expressed his love less effusively than Franklin, but this is undoubtedly a joint love letter to the amazing city that is Edinburgh. 

If you love Edinburgh you will love this show. Even if you don’t love the city (can there be such a person?) you’ll surely still love the show.

Rick Conte has a warm speaking voice, is instantly likeable and is an energetic, funny and charismatic performer. He has a great story to tell, and is a truly gifted storyteller. The sixty minutes of this wonderful show just flew by, and my only disappointment came when the show ended.

’An American Love Letter to Edinburgh’ runs until 25th August (odd dates only).  Tickets from https://tickets.edfringe.com/whats-on/american-love-letter-to-edinburgh

Reviewer: Tom Scott

Reviewed: 19th August 2024

North West End UK Rating: